THREAD for THOUGHT

How fashion intersects politics, economics, gender, race & pop culture.

Essays
The Monetary Value of Fashion

The Monetary Value of Fashion

As you may or may not be aware, the auction of Debbie Reynolds’ extensive Hollywood costume collection was (not surprisingly) a smashing success, in that it set new new highs for what collectors would pay for literal fabric of Hollywood history. Items that have been reported on most have included: $4.6 million for Marilyn Monroe’s...
Mature Models: An Oxymoron?

Mature Models: An Oxymoron?

After the Huffington Post informed me Carmen Dell’Orefice, Oldest Working Model, Turns 80, I crinkled my nose, wondering why this is headline news, and furthermore, why a Huffington author would lead the story with “An 80-year-old model sounds like a fashion oxymoron”? In fact, it doesn’t sound like an oxymoron to me at all, but...
Flamenco Fashion!

Flamenco Fashion!

I have recently become addicted (as in, I watch it every couple of days. Perhaps on repeat.) to Anna Calvi’s simple but mesmerizing video Blackout: Though this particular video spends much time grazing Ms. Calvi’s chiseled jawline and lingering on her sensuous, down-turned red mouth (all of which I heartily approve of!), you unfortunately don’t...
Shoe Factories and Lost Opportunitites

Shoe Factories and Lost Opportunitites

Though I don’t generally think of myself as a shoe fetishist, I do have a soft spot in my heart for Fluevogs. In their latest e-newsletter was a video of a Fluevog shoe being made (I must add the disclaimer that though I truly love Fluevogs, I truly hate the style in this particular vignette):...
Symposium Recap: Authenticity in Yale's "Urban Catwalk"

Symposium Recap: Authenticity in Yale’s “Urban Catwalk”

It was excitement and ultimate delight that I attended (and presented at) Yale’s “The Urban Catwalk” conference this past weekend. Though ostensibly the theme was street fashion, as with most conferences, this topic was expounded upon by a wide range of scholars from vastly different fields (performance studies, French history, literature, communications, etc.). More even...
Sebastian Smith, Fashion Photographer

Sebastian Smith, Fashion Photographer

I met this perfectly lovely — and dapper (he often wears a hat) — young man about a year ago at one of our favorite galleries, Chair and the Maiden. With more than a whiff of Helmut Newton, Sebastian Smith has managed to make a career of his passion: fashion photography. I picked his brain...
The Triangle Factory Fire and the Living Issue of Labor

The Triangle Factory Fire and the Living Issue of Labor

In the current climate of rampant, high-profile antisemitism (Galiano, Gibson, etc.), war on unions (Wisconsin), and the attack of women’s health rights, the centennial anniversary of the tragic Triangle Factory fire of 1911 seems eerily apropos. The Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire was a tragic culmination of long standing inadequate fire and safety codes, and American...
Shocking Colors

Shocking Colors

The past couple of fashion seasons, I’ve noticed the trend of pairing neutrals or murky tertiaries with a slice (or in some daring examples, a chunk) of neon, usually orange, magenta, or electric blue. Though it’s absolutely surprising– some might even say shocking– this is not actually a new 21st century invention. Many think of...
Political Irony in Surrealist Fashion

Political Irony in Surrealist Fashion

I’m gearing up to present at CUNY’s upcoming interdisciplinary conference “Jesters and Gestures: Irony at a Crossroads” (February 24 – 25), and as I was brainstorming what I might be able to bring to the table, Surrealist fashion just screamed at me. Here’s a teaser of what I’ll be speaking on: Irony is typically associated...
Subversion in Trompe L'oeil, Graffiti, and Fashion

Subversion in Trompe L’oeil, Graffiti, and Fashion

Coming from an Art History background with all its unfortunate snooty and consumerist associations (fashion shares these themes, I’m afraid), I’ve recently become obsessed with its subculture offshoot, the publicly accessible graffiti (or “street art”) movement. Long fascinated by graffiti, I’ve recently gone on a binge, going out of my way to walk around Pilsen...
The Cult of Marilyn Monroe Celebrity

The Cult of Marilyn Monroe Celebrity

I have had Marilyn Monroe on the brain recently due to two rather under-publicized tidbits: Michelle Williams (1980 – ) will be playing Marilyn in an upcoming movie My Week With Marilyn, about the tense filming of The Prince and the Showgirl (1957) with Laurence Olivier; and WWD recently informed me that Authentic Brands Group,...
American Art, American Fashion. What is it, anyway?

American Art, American Fashion. What is it, anyway?

As a native Cantabrigian, I read with interest and delight the NYTimes review of the newly opened, newly expanded American Wing of Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts, a museum I practically grew up in (my father still lectures there). I was especially intrigued by the following statement: “One can imagine arguments growing sharp in the...
A Different Take on Street Fashion Photography

A Different Take on Street Fashion Photography

A few months ago I had the delight of popping into the Met’s modestly-sized exhibition “Hipsters, Hustlers, and Handball Players: Leon Levinstein’s New York Photographs, 1950–1980.” From the Met’s website description: “Leon Levinstein (1910–1988), an unheralded master of street photography, is best known for his candid and unsentimental black-and-white figure studies made in New York...
Flattening Fashion

Flattening Fashion

One of my favorite blogs ColourLovers brought to my attention a new cookbook. I have no idea the quality of the recipes in Homemade is Best, but what interested me was that each recipe has a double-page spread of photos of the ingredients, piles neatly arranged in graphic formation. It might make more sense...
First Ladies' Dresses at the Smithsonian-- lessons learned

First Ladies’ Dresses at the Smithsonian– lessons learned

I had the last minute opportunity to visit DC last week and since I hadn’t been there since my 6th grade field trip, I thought it was high time I checked out the capital again. Perhaps I was not walking in the right neighborhoods, but I was pretty disappointed with street life and the lack...
Surreal Shoes

Surreal Shoes

Exhausted after an intense but thoroughly satisfying weekend at Drexel’s Fashion in Fiction conference, I’m all about pretty pictures today. In one of my recent perusals of the interwebs, I discovered the Virtual Shoe Museum. Though it’s not my favorite browser interface, I enjoyed how many (if not most) of the shoes in this catalog...
The Deforming Mirror: Anais Nin’s Fractured Identity as Read through Fashion

The Deforming Mirror: Anais Nin’s Fractured Identity as Read through Fashion

I am thrilled to be participating in Drexel University’s upcoming [the Dark Side of] Fashion in Fiction conference. If anyone will be in Philadelphia October 8 – 10 and is interested in introducing yourself, please get in touch! Here is a taste of what I will be presenting: Anais Nin grappled with complex self-identity issues...
Age and Gender-Appropriate Fashion

Age and Gender-Appropriate Fashion

A few months ago I discovered a video of 8 and 9 year-old girls in a national dance contest, athletically gyrating to the Beyoncé hit “Single Ladies” (a.k.a.”Put a Ring on It”). Prepare yourself: I am anything but a prude, but there was something distinctly unsettling in watching prepubescent girls dance around in fringed burlesque...